Description: Up for sale here is this brand new Littelfuse Q4025L6 triac. This is a magical little piece of silicon that you can use to protect your vintage power switch. It's fairly easy to install and will take almost all the load off of your power switch, so you don't have to worry about your vintage power switch burning out. This is designed for use with a working power switch, so if your switch is already broken, you're out of luck, though if it just has worn contacts, you can often burnish them and then install this. This is fairly easy to install--you'll need a soldering iron, needlenose pliers, wire cutters, a Philips screwdriver, plus a small amount of wire, a bit of heat-shrink tubing, and a 100-ohm 1/2W resistor (metal film or carbon film). It will probably take you 10-30 minutes to install. I use these on a lot of vintage gear--it eliminates any risk of your expensive power switch wearing out. This is rated for 400VAC 25A, so it can be used for little receivers, big receivers, huge amps, whatever. I like installing these on vintage Pioneers, since most of their power switches are no longer available. Here's how to install this: 1. First, make sure your equipment is unplugged. Remove the top and bottom covers and put the screws somewhere safe, like a bag or plastic container. 2. In order to install the triac you'll need to run some wires to it, then mount it to the chassis somewhere. Oftentimes there's an existing chassis screw that you can use, but otherwise you can always drill a hole and screw it down. The metal tab on the triac is not electrically live, so you don't need to worry about insulating it. What I usually do is figure out where I want to mount it, wire it up, then screw it down. It's much easier to work on when it's not screwed down. 3. Your power switch should have two wires going to it--one from the AC cord/main AC fuse and one that goes to the power transformer. Cut them both off of the power switch. 4. The wire from the AC cord/main AC fuse should be soldered to the left lead on the triac (looking at the side with the writing). Use a piece of heat-shrink so you can cover the entire metal lead, but don't heat it up yet. 5. Take a new piece of wire (maybe 4-6 inches long, at least the same gauge as the transformer connector wire), and attach that to the middle triac lead, along with the wire that was going to the transformer (that was previously attached to the power switch). Both of these should be soldered to the middle triac lead, and covered with a piece of heat-shrink. Don't heat it yet. 6. Solder a 100-ohm 1/2W resistor (ideally carbon film or metal film) to the triac lead on the right (the one that hasn't been used). You want as little lead on the resistor as possible, so you have less to cover with heat-shrink. Then attach a new piece of wire (same length/gauge as the other one you used) to the resistor. Put a piece of heat-shrink on so it covers the entire resistor and all the exposed metal joints. Then heat up all the heat-shrink so it all tightens up. 7. You should have two pieces of wire that each have one unattached end. Solder one of those to one side of the original power switch, and the other one to the other side. It doesn't matter which goes where. 8. Mount the triac. Screw it down nice and tight, to the METAL chassis. It can generate some heat and will need a place to dissipate it. You don't need to use any insulators or heat-sink compound. 9. Remove any "snubber" capacitors that are attached to the power switch or the rear AC sockets. These are usually wired directly across the AC socket or power switch, but are sometimes on a circuit board. These will interfere with the triac's operation and are unnecessary--the triac will handle things from now on. 10. Once you're done, then plug the equipment into a dim-bulb tester (I use a 100W incandescent bulb but some folks use smaller ones). Power it up. It should power on nicely, with no issues. Test it a few more times. You should be good. 11. Reassemble your equipment. US shipping and handling is $5, and international is $18, no matter what quantity you buy. All my small parts are set up for combined shipping, so just use the "add to cart" feature and then check out all at once, and it will combine shipping. If you have any questions, please ask. Looking for more parts? I have power switches, feet, pushbuttons, top case screws, bottom screws, faceplate screws, white LED fuse lamps, blue LED fuse lamps, 6.3v bi-pin bulbs, 8v bi-pin bulbs, 12v bi-pin bulbs, wired 8v 60ma bulbs, new power cords, new main capacitors for the Marantz 1060/2230, wired Pioneer speaker plug replacements, new 630v yellow film capacitors at 13 different values, a large variety of transistors for vintage stereo repair, and more. Just use "add to cart" on everything you want and then check out for combined shipping.
Price: 10 USD
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
End Time: 2024-09-09T15:52:56.000Z
Shipping Cost: 5 USD
Product Images
Item Specifics
Restocking Fee: No
Return shipping will be paid by: Buyer
All returns accepted: Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within: 30 Days
Refund will be given as: Money Back
Return policy details:
Type: Switch
MPN: Q4025L6, Does Not Apply
Brand: Littelfuse
